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Underfloor Heating

Electric underfloor heating can be installed beneath a tiled floor allowing the room to be warm without the need of wall mounted radiators. Bathroom and kitchen floors can be cosy and warm through a wall mounted thermostat. Modern digital kits make it easy to operate the floor heating control and the variety of functions in some kits can really make life simple. Set it to come on to a certain temperature at a certain time and then switch off at another time - or to stay on and maintain a set temperature as you like it... Easy!

I have installed electric underfloor heating systems in clients homes in utility rooms, bathrooms and kitchens. I can supply the UFH kit or my client can supply it and I fit it with their tiles on top.

 

Is my floor suitable for UFH installation?

Generally speaking, wooden floors are not always suitable for UFH; although it is possible to lay plywood board then a layer of levelling compound or screed on top and then the UFH mat and then the tiles but the floor hieght will rise considerably in such a situation. Concrete floors are ideal.

 

Do you undertake the electrical work?

I fit the UFH mat and arrange the power feed cable & temperature sensor cable to either be hidden inside a plasterboard wall or otherwise perhaps through a skirting into a cupboard. The actual electrical connection and live wiring has to be done by a qualified electrician.

 

How long does it take to install?

Every job is different; some shower room floors are very small while some bathrooms are much larger. The UFH kits are available in a range of sizes from 2 square metres up to 8 square metres and more. The time taken to fit them depends on the condition of the existing floor and whether it is 'UFH ready' or not. Typically though an installation would add a day or day and half to a floor tiling job.

 

Are they expensive to run?

There are several different power ratings for UFH kits, they start at around 100 Watts per square metre area for background economical heating but there are kits that offer 200 Watts per square metre area for rooms where either there is higher heat loss (such as a conservatory in winter) or for rooms where a quicker warm up time is desired.

 

 

1. Starting out with the original floor.
2. Laying a layer of either self levelling compound or flexy adhesive.
3. Fitting the wiring mat.
4. Fitting the thermometer sensor wire.
5. A second layer of levelling compound or flexy adhesive.
6. Finally fitting the tiles on top - the finished floor.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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